Видео

Great. What are you going to try it on?

Thanks Charles. I used regular nitrate. In this case, I used Randolph nitrate dope that I got from Aircraft Spruce & Supply. I got it there because I was able to buy a gallon of dope and a gallon of thinner for much less than normal hobby brands. Randolph Coatings makes dopes for full scale aircraft. Brodak model dopes are actually made by Randolph. I haven't had any issues with warping, and as you can see with the Albatros wing, it's very thin.

I was born in Munich and we moved to Canada when I was 3 years old. I still speak the dialect, and have gone back to visit my relatives many times. I still feel very at home there and miss it greatly!

How large is large? I glassed a 1/5 scale Hawker Typhoon a few years ago. I think I used 4oz or so. The seams aren't hugely important because with the sanding and filling they disappear anyway.

Thanks Stuart! Don't give me too much praise though. It really isn't that hard to do.

A good question, and one that I really can't answer. Hopefully someone with some armour experience can chime in.

I think so. I'd probably thin it with lacquer thinner to make it a bit more fluid. You could run into trouble over sheeted surfaces with more air bubbles, but I'm not sure. Like any finishing method, try it on a test piece first rather than mess up your model.

Oh wow, that's a tough one. Is the airship meant to fly? If so, then this covering method would be far too heavy, I think. You would have to use some sort of super light mylar film.

+Der Wolpertinger It's going to be decoration only. I think I'm going to cut out pieces similar to a football, leave some edges to sew it together like a pillow then slide it over the rigid frame I've built. This would be with some sort of fabric, then put some starch on it to give it a sort of stiff feeling, or the stuff used on canvas.

Yeah, that should work. Not sure about the starch, but aircraft dope for fabric coverings would be good.

My pleasure!

Doping the covering material does toughen it a bit. The fabric covering iron socks work best on plastic coverings. Fabric on fabric sometimes creates too much friction for the iron to slide. There are some fabric iron ons that have a fairly smooth surface, so the covering socks are OK with those. The only way to know for sure is try and see what works. Good luck with your project.

Thank you! The model felt right in the air, so I decided to fly again.

+Donatillo Arteaga Thank you. Unfortunately the model had a very short flight and crashed on only its 5th flight. It was totally destroyed. That was a very sad day that almost made me quit the hobby.

+Gunnar Hovmark Thank you! Yes, it is much lighter than an ARF and flies so much better, too. My friend made a video of me and the model as well: ruclips.net/video/O1NaeEPJ_qE/видео.html

+John Stewart Hi John. Polyspan is great stuff, but it is heavier than tissue. Truthfully, converting peanut scale models to RC is not that easy because everything is so small. It's possible and lots of guys have done it, but it's not that easy. One thing you could do is enlarge the plans by 75-100% and then cut out your own parts. Lots of free plans for models of all sizes available for download too. aerofred.com/ is a good site for that.

+sirlordwhitman Freewing, hands down no contest. More scale outline, metal retracts, better ESC location with built in cooling vents, smoother foam finish, better painted finish, and that's just what I can remember off hand. The only downside is that the Freewing is more expensive. Worth it, in my opinion.

+Dan P Thanks! Yes, I am super happy with the model. Now that it's had a few flights, the engine is really started to break in and sing happily without overheating. I'm looking forward to a great upcoming flying season.

+Dan P It actually was pretty straight forward. The designer (Kay Bengtson) already figured out all the hard parts. I just put it together, and it worked perfectly.

+Alfred Wheeler You could certainly do that, but you will spend ages sanding to get a good, even finish. The resin is much harder than the filler, and it will take a lot more effort to sand down.

Der Wolpertinger Ah. Makes sense. Thanks!

+Michel Camargue Merci. Polyspan est beaucoup plus forte que papier japonais. Aussi, Polyspan résistera crevaisons beaucoup mieux que le papier Japon. Polyspan durera beaucoup plus longtemps

+Der Wolpertinger Ok merci pour votre réponse

+Alsy Hi there: It would indeed make a balsa sword much sturdier, but I don't think it would survive what you are describing. I would carve the sword from pine for much greater strength, and then you could still glass it to seal the wood grain, and then paint. Good Luck!

+Der Wolpertinger I wouldn't be actually fighting, I just want to imitate fighting without worrying my sword will break at the slightest movement or if it falls on the ground., you know. In the last project I made, the sword was made of medium density fiberboard, but this time around I don't have any powertools available so I was looking into balsa wood since I heard it can be shaped and cut without any powertools ( a handsaw is supposedly the heaviest tool I would need). Is that correct or has my research been wrong? Would an exacto knife really be enough to cut balsa wood?

+Alsy If you're not banging swords together, then balsa will probably be OK. The weight and strength of balsa can vary greatly. For your use, light weight isn't that important so I would try and select a heavier piece. An X-Acto knife is generally sufficient to cut balsa, although the heavier stronger wood can be fairly tough. For shaping, it's easy to carve with a knife, and then finish to shape with sandpaper. I would use a heavier grade of fiberglass cloth than what I show in these videos. Probably 2oz cloth (which means it weighs 2oz/square yard). Even 6oz cloth would probably be OK.

+Der Wolpertinger Thank you so much for all the extra information! It will sure be useful once I actually start making the sword. I'll let you know how it's going and if I get any more questions, I'll be back :)

+Alsy You are welcome. Good Luck! I don't know where you are located. In Europe, I think? I know where to get fiberglassing supplies here in Canada, but have no idea where you buy them in Europe. But please, if you have more questions, ask. I am happy to help.

+Alberto Bettelini Hello Alberto. I do not know what airfoil it is. The Albatros is a kit from Aerodrome R/C. Perhaps you could contact them and ask.

+Der Wolpertinger Thank you :)

+Chris Boyce Thanks Chris. A roller would probably work fine, especially on larger surface areas. I think for ribs and narrow edges a brush is the best choice, but I've never thought about a roller. You could always give it a try and let us know!

+fyfefamily Thank for the comments. What is not apparent from the video is that there is a plywood plate in the intake scoop that just clears the engine's fins, so the air is in fact being forced right through them. The motor is running absolutely fine and cool, and is really starting to break in nicely.

+Robert Olenick In the video, the model has a Zenoha G62 in it. He has just re-engined it with a D85, but hasn't flown it a lot since.

+Gage 2k5 Hi There. Sorry it's taken me so long to answer your question. I missed reading it somehow. Anyway, try holding the covering up to a light and looking across it into the light at a very shallow angle Sometimes you can see one side is shiny and smooth, and the other is a bit rougher.

Cars show Island Thanks. I wish I had had my good camera with me.

Lloyd Ertel Thanks Lloyd. If I can offer one piece of advice, it's to keep the model light, light, light! The design as it is, is way over-engineered to accommodate that shaking gas motor. You should be able to make a lot of mods to lighten the airframe. Good Luck!

MsSingingcrow My pleasure! It's great to know that the video is helpful. Thanks for the comment.

Mike McCrindle Thanks Mike! And thanks for taking the video, and for your engine tuning expertise! By the way, I've got some good video of your Mustang, so I'll get around to editing and posting that later.

Brian's R/C Corner You and me both, buddy!