![Der Wolpertinger](/img/default-banner.jpg)
- Видео 116
- Просмотров 628 830
Der Wolpertinger
Добавлен 31 авг 2006
My hobby is building and flying radio control scale model aircraft, so that's more than likely what the focus will be for the majority of my videos.
Видео
My 1st Track Day
Просмотров 1394 года назад
My first experience driving my 2012 991.1 Porsche Carrera S on a track. The track is Vancouver Island Motorsport Circuit near Duncan, BC. The day was sponsored by Porsche Centre Victoria. A great experience going out there and playing "Follow the leader" while an experienced driver coached you through on the radio. Then there was some open lapping, too. So much fun, and I can't wait to do it ag...
Fabspeed Valvetronic Exhaust on 2011 Porsche Cayman S
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.5 лет назад
A short clip of the first cold start of the Fabspeed Valvetronic exhaust system on my 2011 Cayman S. The car is still on the lift, and I haven't even done final adjustment and tightening of all the nuts and bolts yet. I also haven't installed the control system, so this is with the valves open. It's a great system, and with the valves closed it has a nice sports car sound without being loud and...
Fabspeed Valvetronic Exhaust for Porsche Cayman 997.2 - What's in the Box
Просмотров 5655 лет назад
I just got my Fabspeed Valvetronic exhaust system for my 2011 Porsche Cayman S. Let's have a look at what's in the box! Here's the link to the system: www.fabspeed.com/porsche-987-2-boxster-cayman-valvetronic-exhaust-system/
2011 Porsche Cayman (987.2) Marker Lights
Просмотров 4755 лет назад
A video showing a quick and easy mod on a 2011 Porsche Cayman. In North America, we get stock amber marker lights on the sides of the front fenders. Clear (or smoked) lenses look a lot better, especially on a black car. Fortunately, there are some nice aftermarket lights available on E-Bay at reasonable prices. I got mine from E-Bay seller carlab-design-tuning: bit.ly/2DPRONY Note that they are...
Jeepin'
Просмотров 796 лет назад
Taking the 91 XJ out for it's first trip since installing a 6.5" long arm lift, 33" Dick Cepeck Extreme Country tires, and new 4.56 gears in the diffs. It's working good!
Billie and Axle at Air Force Beach
Просмотров 636 лет назад
We take Oma, Billie, and Axle to Air Force beach here in Comox. It's only 5 minutes from the house. This was only Axle's second time at the beach, and he really enjoys it. Billie just spends the entire time fishing, trying to catch the little fish that skim along the bottom.
Visit From Typhoon Pilot Harry Hardy
Просмотров 2548 лет назад
A while back, I built a 1:5 scale model of a Hawker Typhoon. When it came time to choose a colour scheme, I came across "Pulverizer II". With a name like that, I decided right away that this would be it. Some research revealed that Pulverizer II (along with I, III, and IV) was flown by a Canadian pilot in 440Sqn, F/Lt Harry Hardy. It also looked like Harry was still alive and living in the Vanc...
Tiere von Ort (Animals of Ort)
Просмотров 808 лет назад
A few minutes of video from our trip to Bavaria last autumn. This is just behind my uncle's house, towards the village of Ort. It's pure heaven!
Martin Mars Flyby
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.9 лет назад
I was on my way to work yesterday when I looked over my shoulder and was surprised to see the Mars trundling along over the shoreline. I pulled over and shot a quick video with my phone. Always an impressive sight!
Mike's Mustang
Просмотров 6339 лет назад
Here's Mike McCrindle ripping it up with his Top Flite giant scale P-51 Mustang built from the kit. Not sure what he has in there for power, but I'd say it's enough! Mike is one heck of a "Show Pilot"!
Typhoon Maiden
Просмотров 7 тыс.9 лет назад
Here is the maiden flight (and flights 2&3) of my 1:5 scale Hawker Typhoon. The model was scratch built over a two year period from Vailly Aviation plans. Power is a ZDZ-90RV-J. Weight is 48lbs. Finish is fiberglass and paint is Klas Kote epoxy. The model is "Pulverizer II", flown by Harry Hardy of 440sqn RCAF. I was really nervous about the first flight, but it turned out to be a real honey to...
Mike's Gypsy Moth on Floats
Просмотров 2649 лет назад
Here's Mike's little Gypsy Moth on floats. It does very well from our grass field. Mike left the model behind for me, so it's up to me to try it from real water.
"Sopwith" Mike Flying His Models in Comox
Просмотров 2919 лет назад
"Sopwith" Mike Flying His Models in Comox
Vailley 1/5 Hawker Typhoon Systems Check
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.9 лет назад
Vailley 1/5 Hawker Typhoon Systems Check
Tom's Spitfire with Picture in Picture
Просмотров 21410 лет назад
Tom's Spitfire with Picture in Picture
Freewing and Dynam 262 Rotte in Flight
Просмотров 45210 лет назад
Freewing and Dynam 262 Rotte in Flight
Thank you so much for your great video
great - I´ll try
Great. What are you going to try it on?
Awesome video !!! Quick question: when sealing the polyspan after you have tightened it with the heat gun, are you using a regular nitrate dope or a low-shrink butyrate like the Sig Lite-Koat ? The reason I ask is because the polyspan is already "tight" after applying the heat gun, and with a couple of extra coats of tautening nitrate or butyrate I am afraid we could wrap the wing. Any specific product you use ? I would very much appreciate your feedback. Regards Charles Bovalis
Thanks Charles. I used regular nitrate. In this case, I used Randolph nitrate dope that I got from Aircraft Spruce & Supply. I got it there because I was able to buy a gallon of dope and a gallon of thinner for much less than normal hobby brands. Randolph Coatings makes dopes for full scale aircraft. Brodak model dopes are actually made by Randolph. I haven't had any issues with warping, and as you can see with the Albatros wing, it's very thin.
Amazing, very nice technique
You have a huge reserve of patience. Covering is not something that can be done in a hurry. Do you really live in Bavaria?
I was born in Munich and we moved to Canada when I was 3 years old. I still speak the dialect, and have gone back to visit my relatives many times. I still feel very at home there and miss it greatly!
crazy and easy clean up
nice, how do you know how much to mix on a large fuse, and where to stop and hide a seam, tks frank
How large is large? I glassed a 1/5 scale Hawker Typhoon a few years ago. I think I used 4oz or so. The seams aren't hugely important because with the sanding and filling they disappear anyway.
That sir was a master piece in covering I am in awe of your skills you are a very clever man
Thanks Stuart! Don't give me too much praise though. It really isn't that hard to do.
Awesome video, thanks for the much valued lesson.
I think that covering probably scares a lot of would-be builders from building models. Your video demo goes slow enough with enough detail to inspire people to go ahead and do it. We in California have some problems obtaining Stiks It and dopes. I have tried water based Mod Podge and it seems to be fair substitute for Stiks It or Balsa Rite. Brodak and Sig apparently can ship to California . A video done like this for iron on coverings like Parklite would be good too..
You would be happy with that i know i would be. nicely flown as well
I just painted the panzer 2 afrika corps.Better to use black for the wash or redbrown?
A good question, and one that I really can't answer. Hopefully someone with some armour experience can chime in.
Can you use sticks-it on monokote to double your adhesion?
I think so. I'd probably thin it with lacquer thinner to make it a bit more fluid. You could run into trouble over sheeted surfaces with more air bubbles, but I'm not sure. Like any finishing method, try it on a test piece first rather than mess up your model.
Do you have any tips on how I would go about doing something similar but on a airship?
Oh wow, that's a tough one. Is the airship meant to fly? If so, then this covering method would be far too heavy, I think. You would have to use some sort of super light mylar film.
+Der Wolpertinger It's going to be decoration only. I think I'm going to cut out pieces similar to a football, leave some edges to sew it together like a pillow then slide it over the rigid frame I've built. This would be with some sort of fabric, then put some starch on it to give it a sort of stiff feeling, or the stuff used on canvas.
Yeah, that should work. Not sure about the starch, but aircraft dope for fabric coverings would be good.
Great article in MAAC mag, thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
im learning all i can before i build my first kit and do a none dope tissue finish. so far iv only built one rubber band A/B free flight kit. i had no clue what dope was so when igot to the finish part i was lost and searching for dope did not help. LOL.. anyhow, so i made a static stand for it and just kept it as art work while i learn to fly and build quads etc. now im ready to get into a more advance finish etc.. so i found some eze dope.. water based.. and the tissue went on no problem.. with EZE dope. when it drys it shrinks, then you can sand and paint. my over all goal is to build X-wing fighter i am from the starwars generation.. my plan is to use the Astron X-wing.. since its a proven fuselage wing design.. i just have to do up the art work and make i look even cooler. when you use this method of adding the glue to the frame it self, then paint the material to does it make your covering more durable stronger? or is this method more desirable for large scale wwI planes that would enter into the national etc contest which are graded on looks, and flying.. so that why this method is chosen. in the vintage RC visual magazine videos you can watch on yuotube.. they build a wwI wired frame plane and they use a cloth material that is adhesive on the back.. was a new product when the video was made in 1984 then he goes into using wood stains etc to make it look vintage and used war bird. also the cloth slippers yuo see for the heating irons.. are they used for the plastic materials not the clothes etc. thank you for your time.. i look forward to exploring your Chanel :D
Doping the covering material does toughen it a bit. The fabric covering iron socks work best on plastic coverings. Fabric on fabric sometimes creates too much friction for the iron to slide. There are some fabric iron ons that have a fairly smooth surface, so the covering socks are OK with those. The only way to know for sure is try and see what works. Good luck with your project.
Great tutorial, thanks!
A great video of a fine model! Quite impressive, to me at least, that you adjusted the engine and did another flight. Twice! Me, I would have had to go home and take a valium in between. :)
Thank you! The model felt right in the air, so I decided to fly again.
awesome! might try this technique on a smaller scale
I love this plane !
+Donatillo Arteaga Thank you. Unfortunately the model had a very short flight and crashed on only its 5th flight. It was totally destroyed. That was a very sad day that almost made me quit the hobby.
Lighter and a lot more scale-looking than the ARF model. Beautiful!
+Gunnar Hovmark Thank you! Yes, it is much lighter than an ARF and flies so much better, too. My friend made a video of me and the model as well: ruclips.net/video/O1NaeEPJ_qE/видео.html
I've never heard of polyspan till I watched this video. it's been a really long time since I've built a kit and honestly I'm thinking about getting back into it and ditching the BNF stuff. I miss the old peanut scale rubber band balsa kits I had as a kid so I figure I'd build em and convert em to rc. didn't want the weight of the tissue paper and I bet this stuff is probably even lighter! gonna have to try it out! thanks for the vid! love the info =)
+John Stewart Hi John. Polyspan is great stuff, but it is heavier than tissue. Truthfully, converting peanut scale models to RC is not that easy because everything is so small. It's possible and lots of guys have done it, but it's not that easy. One thing you could do is enlarge the plans by 75-100% and then cut out your own parts. Lots of free plans for models of all sizes available for download too. aerofred.com/ is a good site for that.
which do you think is better? I'm about to take the Dynam off someone's hands..because he thought he ordered the freewing
+sirlordwhitman Freewing, hands down no contest. More scale outline, metal retracts, better ESC location with built in cooling vents, smoother foam finish, better painted finish, and that's just what I can remember off hand. The only downside is that the Freewing is more expensive. Worth it, in my opinion.
Very nice build! You must be very pleased :)Nice flying too. You can certainly handle the Typhoon well.
+Dan P Thanks! Yes, I am super happy with the model. Now that it's had a few flights, the engine is really started to break in and sing happily without overheating. I'm looking forward to a great upcoming flying season.
Looking for ideas how to hook up ailerons on my Ziroli SE5 and came across your video.Good grief man! You have more patience than I.
+Dan P It actually was pretty straight forward. The designer (Kay Bengtson) already figured out all the hard parts. I just put it together, and it worked perfectly.
Instead of putty, why not surface it with a couple of coats of the resin, the first coat to soak in, the second to cap/seal. Resin should adhere to resin impregnated balsa better than putty surfaced balsa. I would have thought so, anyway... Or does the resin penetrate both the putty and the balsa equally well together to make a strong bond? Thanks!
+Alfred Wheeler You could certainly do that, but you will spend ages sanding to get a good, even finish. The resin is much harder than the filler, and it will take a lot more effort to sand down.
Der Wolpertinger Ah. Makes sense. Thanks!
Amazingly done. Truly plastic to wood.
Génial on dirait du papier Japon ! par contre plus facile à manipuler et surtout à poser.
+Michel Camargue Merci. Polyspan est beaucoup plus forte que papier japonais. Aussi, Polyspan résistera crevaisons beaucoup mieux que le papier Japon. Polyspan durera beaucoup plus longtemps
+Der Wolpertinger Ok merci pour votre réponse
Thank you so much for the detailed series! I'll be using this to make a cosplay sword. I would've made it from balsa only, but I need to use it in a fighting scene on stage and I was looking for a way to reinforce the sword. This would make a balsa sword sturdier, righ? Say, if I dropped it on the ground or imitated a fight it wouldn 't break?
+Alsy Hi there: It would indeed make a balsa sword much sturdier, but I don't think it would survive what you are describing. I would carve the sword from pine for much greater strength, and then you could still glass it to seal the wood grain, and then paint. Good Luck!
+Der Wolpertinger I wouldn't be actually fighting, I just want to imitate fighting without worrying my sword will break at the slightest movement or if it falls on the ground., you know. In the last project I made, the sword was made of medium density fiberboard, but this time around I don't have any powertools available so I was looking into balsa wood since I heard it can be shaped and cut without any powertools ( a handsaw is supposedly the heaviest tool I would need). Is that correct or has my research been wrong? Would an exacto knife really be enough to cut balsa wood?
+Alsy If you're not banging swords together, then balsa will probably be OK. The weight and strength of balsa can vary greatly. For your use, light weight isn't that important so I would try and select a heavier piece. An X-Acto knife is generally sufficient to cut balsa, although the heavier stronger wood can be fairly tough. For shaping, it's easy to carve with a knife, and then finish to shape with sandpaper. I would use a heavier grade of fiberglass cloth than what I show in these videos. Probably 2oz cloth (which means it weighs 2oz/square yard). Even 6oz cloth would probably be OK.
+Der Wolpertinger Thank you so much for all the extra information! It will sure be useful once I actually start making the sword. I'll let you know how it's going and if I get any more questions, I'll be back :)
+Alsy You are welcome. Good Luck! I don't know where you are located. In Europe, I think? I know where to get fiberglassing supplies here in Canada, but have no idea where you buy them in Europe. But please, if you have more questions, ask. I am happy to help.
Hello Eolpertinger and thanks for the very usefull video you shared! Can I ask you wich airfoil you used on your Albatross? Thanks in advance
+Alberto Bettelini Hello Alberto. I do not know what airfoil it is. The Albatros is a kit from Aerodrome R/C. Perhaps you could contact them and ask.
+Der Wolpertinger Thank you :)
Would a small roller be a quicker method for applying SIG stick it, the data sheet suggests an even coverage to the contact edge, with a roller a constant thickness of adhesive is achieve more easily. Thanks for the great video. Chris
+Chris Boyce Thanks Chris. A roller would probably work fine, especially on larger surface areas. I think for ribs and narrow edges a brush is the best choice, but I've never thought about a roller. You could always give it a try and let us know!
Great video. Nice to see building and covering skills being promoted. Building your own plane is half the fun of the hobby, surely!
Nice model. Air always looks for the path of least resistance. Meaning away from the cylinder fins. You should look at some baffling to get the air right over the fins and not around them and out. Interesting flying field. :)
+fyfefamily Thank for the comments. What is not apparent from the video is that there is a plywood plate in the intake scoop that just clears the engine's fins, so the air is in fact being forced right through them. The motor is running absolutely fine and cool, and is really starting to break in nicely.
Very inspiring and that landing was as good as it gets
Really nice. What motor. Just ordered one going with dle 61
+Robert Olenick In the video, the model has a Zenoha G62 in it. He has just re-engined it with a D85, but hasn't flown it a lot since.
good job easy to understand
Hi, really enjoyed your tutorial on Polyspan. After watching this a few weeks ago, I decided to use Polyspan instead of a plastic film on my scratch built Navigator seaplane. The Polyspan came in and I am having difficulty finding the "shiny side" as it looks like both sides are shiny. Is there another way to determine the correct side to lay down on the structure? Thank You!
+Gage 2k5 Hi There. Sorry it's taken me so long to answer your question. I missed reading it somehow. Anyway, try holding the covering up to a light and looking across it into the light at a very shallow angle Sometimes you can see one side is shiny and smooth, and the other is a bit rougher.
Nice. And you recorded it in wide screen view, Bonus points
Cars show Island Thanks. I wish I had had my good camera with me.
great video.. i am building this model but going to use an electric motor.. wish me luck. Hobby king here i come
Lloyd Ertel Thanks Lloyd. If I can offer one piece of advice, it's to keep the model light, light, light! The design as it is, is way over-engineered to accommodate that shaking gas motor. You should be able to make a lot of mods to lighten the airframe. Good Luck!
Well I only hope my yt looks as good as yours just sorting the ballast need help with the cg any body yt typhoon. wing is 15 inches 0ne third back for cg am I about right anybody. Der great job smooth grass to like Bob uk.
I really appreciate the detail you give in this video, thanks for helping a fledgling first-time builder.
MsSingingcrow My pleasure! It's great to know that the video is helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video. Thank you
That is amazing Frank
It's always a great pleasure to see another typhoon to born in the air. Thank you to post that video
YES!! Thanks, Frank! So nice to have an official video. Great camera work, my friend.
Great model, and great flying! Thanks for sharing the video Frank!
Superb.
That was a pleasure to be there for the first day. What a machine!!
Mike McCrindle Thanks Mike! And thanks for taking the video, and for your engine tuning expertise! By the way, I've got some good video of your Mustang, so I'll get around to editing and posting that later.
Awesome! I wish I could have been there.
Brian's R/C Corner You and me both, buddy!
Very nice!